EXERT FROM APPENDIX 1 from Don Featherstone's Battles With Model Soldiers
(The book that got me started.)

"Nothing in these pages is a dictate, no word says you must or you shall do it this way. On the contrary, the book sets out from the very beginning to stimulate the reader to think for himself, and to use what he has read merely as a foundation for efforts and ideas which reflect his own temperament and character. Only in this way will he obtain maximum satisfaction from the hobby of battling with model soldiers."

-Don Featherstone 1918 - 2013

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Tree Reconstruction.

I had it all planned out. Today was forecast to be cool and rainy (and it was, well cool and cloudy anyway) and I was going to get a 16thC game on the table, but....................

Anyway, I am almost finished the MacDuff update that I was trying to put off until at least August. Having put a lot of thought into the kind of game that I want to be able to play with the glossy 40mm toy soldier guys, why just using Charge! wasn't going to work and why is was just as well to have an element based Hearts of Tin game be different rather than having the rules converge, I figured, I'd best get a few things written before I forgot. Next thing you know.........

Almost everything in this version has been tried out but not in quite this configuration. Briefly, I am taking another stab at simultaneous moves with written turn orders ala Charge!, and the control check, after 20 years of service has been banished as being neither conducive ti a good game or a good or realistic rendition of friction, (I may re-introduce an optional role play version for solo games), variable length moves remain but rather than handfuls of dice, I'm going to try  average dice read in 100's of yards (players can then measure in mm, use 100 yd hexes (dum de dum de dum) or multiply by 4 to get inches), firing is still by groups of 4, but melee is back to figure vs figure rolls. Rallying hits and 25% casualties in 1 turn.meaning disorder are back as is the >50% break rule but all separate morale tests have been banished again.  I'm still checking .cross references and looking for missed bits but I'm looking forward to trying them out on the table so that if they are cast just right, I can get back to sculpting , casting and painting with an easy mind that the figures are what I will need..

In the mean time, the other day I experimented with cutting hexagonal tree bases from some spare 1/4" plywood-ish type board. An irregular shape with rounded corners would have been good but I don't have a band saw, so, straight sided hexes it was. They were quickly sketched free hand so are a bit wonky but it was surprisingly easy to cut them. When I went to fasten on a tree and flock it, I was annoyed to find that  my glue had vanished, so, today I went out, replaced it and flocked the base. Then I went to grab the tin of foliage.....hmmmmmm .   I thought I had a tin of foliage..... oh well, I found a few clumps so fixed the worst ravages at time and voila a tree that fits in a 3" or 4" hex or no hex at all but won't fall over easily.


Now I need 2 dozen more tree bases for the portable ACW as well as several feet of 1/72nd split rail fences, sunken roads and stone walls. Wonder where all the 15mm ones went?







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2 comments:

  1. Ross,

    For a very easy way to make "split rail fences", check out my Oct. 6, 2009 Saxe-Bearstein post:

    http://saxe-bearstein.blogspot.com/2009/10/easy-15mm-fences-for-acw-while-reading.html

    While toothpicks work great for 15mm, they aren't tall enough for your big boys . . . but there are good substitutes that can be used . . . the technique is the same and they are very flexible.


    -- Jeff

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  2. Thanks for reminding me of that post Jeff. I'm using to seeing the low fences without the X cross pieces but I think the style with the X was more common, esp for high fences so I should make some of them as well.

    The last time I made fences, can't recall if I used toothpicks or balsa strips, I soaked them in a black wash for a few hours then let them dry before gluing them together.Gave them a very natural grey look.

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