EXCERPT FROM APPENDIX 1 from Don Featherstone's Battles With Model Soldiers
(The book that got me started.)

"Nothing in these pages is a dictate, no word says you must or you shall do it this way. On the contrary, the book sets out from the very beginning to stimulate the reader to think for himself, and to use what he has read merely as a foundation for efforts and ideas which reflect his own temperament and character. Only in this way will he obtain maximum satisfaction from the hobby of battling with model soldiers."

-Don Featherstone 1918 - 2013

Saturday, December 12, 2015

Strike While the Tin is Hot.

After perusing my options I decided to keep testing the Tin Army but using part of my War of 1812 collection in a hill free scenario. Perversely, I chose to use some of my favorite fictional units over my converted S&S figures. (Anyone wanting to buy some or all of about 100 painted chunky 40mm 1812 figures, Brits & US, fairly cheap drop me an email to rmacfa at gmail.)
Here we go again. Brits to the left, Yankees to the right.
The obvious squares are actually blocks of 4 grid squares.
The table is laid out at 1 grid square (9cm) to roughly 150 paces. Line infantry average about 350 - 400 strong. The game will last 15 turns or 3-4 hours historical time. All infantry is musket armed.

The British force of 3 line, 2 light infantry, a gun plus a gunboat which can't move, has only 1 commander but he has +1 to his Orders roll. The Americans with 6 infantry, a gun and a cavalry unit have 3 Brigadiers as well as a General but to reflect difficulties with coordination on the day have 2 penalties. The General must subtract 1 from each order die while the Brigadiers may only command their own infantry units.

I'm all set up but have errands to run so the game is delayed to this evening or tomorrow.


  1. Good man Ross, I shall look forward to seeing the troops in action.

  2. When you say 'obvious squares' I actually quite like their look - not at all obtrusive to my eye, but still functional, I would find it hard to cope though with then dividing this down further into quarters. Your 'loosely' painted top inspires me to try my hand at something similar. Perhaps 5 or 6 inch squares for me.

    I think the problem that I have had with squares before is that I make them too precise and too obvious, drawing them in full, a looser softer style will be more forgiving on the eye.

    1. I really liked the last one with 5" squares as fields, woods etc but there weren't enough squares. Haven't decided yet on the final look here. Most planned games to be set in an area with more wide open prairie/pasture so I will need to be more subtle.

      The plan for the groups of 4 is to mark the middle with a smsll blotch and to maybe offset the blocks.