Saturday, May 7, 2011

Back to Black

I made the trek over the mountain to Morden today for a game with Jeff. 15mm Black Powder was the order of the day, more specifically, the Crimean River scenario played with 15mm Napoleonic forces. Jeff's forces include my old Battle Honour French Revolution Russians so I was able to slip into my old personna of Prince Roskov and lead some of my old boys into action. Most of my cell phone pictures came out completely useless but these two fuzzy ones should give an idea of the game.

The game is a fairly straight forward attack on a pair of redoubts. The main twist is that the cavalry may be kept off table initially. A key feature as it turned out.   The armies are quite small with only 2 battalions per brigade so we agreed to modify the Broken Brigade rule so that Brigades would only  be broken when all units are shaken rather than 1/2.  (If not it would only have taken 3 hits to shake a British brigade, 4 for a Russian one and the game would probably have been over in 2 or 3 turns.)

I placed 1 brigade supporting my left hand battery, and 2 supporting the right hand one. Jeff masked my right hand redoubt with 1 brigade and launched 2 at the weaker left hand one, supported by 2 batteries.  He quickly found his supporting artillery masked and switched the guns to the other flank but with one thing and another, they barely fired a shot all day. In retrospect, Jeff should either have charged the redoubt or stood back at long rifle range but he advanced to close range and suffered heavily from cannister. 

I brought my 1st cavalry brigade on my right, hoping to outflank his masking force. He countered by bringing his light cavalry on his right to flank the other redoubt.  I deftly countered his counter by rolling low, bringing up my 2nd cavalry brigade, advancing across the table, falling up on his lead units with twice the men......and being routed by his ferocious Light Brigade!  (Rats!) 

On the other flank, I repulsed an attack by his infantry then counter attacked all along the line. His infantry managed to form  square but went disordered and broke. Aha!  Unfortunately, I  had rather forgotten about his Heavy Brigade. Its was Jeff's turn to deftly roll low, move onto the table, advance and charge into the rear of my cavalry and infantry. Oh dear! 
Out of the distant glare ride 5 small squadrons of British Heavy cavalry.

My lads put up a good fight but 1 battalion of infantry and a regiment of cavalry were broken while 1 more of each were driven back. It was some consolation that I finished off his last infantry battalion on that flank but there was nothing to stop Jeff's horsemen from over running the redoubt from the rear. In a desperate attempt to forestall a counterattack, Jeff let his cavalry pursue, breaking the 2nd infantry battalion from my 3rd Brigade and one of my Cossack units. They didn't go down without a fight, however, and by the time the dust settled, the Heavy Brigade was broken and its 5 regiments falling back as my last functioning battalion on that flank moved to take back the redoubt.   

British Guards advance on Russian line . 

On the other flank, things looked worse. A battalion of British guards routed one battalion and was closing in on one flank while a sole Russian Hussar regiment faced down a force of light cavalry, horse artillery and infantry on the other. However, its always darkest before the dawn and the combination of artillery and skirmish fire finally took its toll and with both battalions shaken, the Guards brigade was broken and had to retreat.  An impatient Jeff decided first to screen my cavalry with Highlanders while he used cavalry and horse artillery against the redoubt then turned some of the cavalry on my Hussars while sending another squadron against my last infantry unit. The Hussars were crushed and fled but they did enough damage to shake their opponents. Another squadron fell to artillery fire. The game hung in the balance, snake-eyes or box cars as my infantry hastily formed square and I would probably be broken and the redoubt over run. Like clockwork the soldiers ran to their places, formed square and saw off the cavalry. Minutes later their musket fire drove off the last squadron of British cavalry, breaking the brigade.

I seriously doubt that my last battalion could have driven off the horse artillery and highlanders but with both British cavalry brigades broken, the British couldn't win even if they did take the last redoubt.  Jeff offered to consider it a Russian victory but I'm content to consider it a Draw rescued from a  near total Russian defeat.

Black Powder was its usual choppy, wonky self but while at times I felt that my decisions and choices were pretty much irrelevant, there was no question that my rash counter attack on the right nearly cost me the game. If my troops hadn't "fought" (ie rolled) uncommonly well, (the Cossacks in particular scoring 4 or 5 hits on 5 dice several times, and my old veteran infantry managing to hang on for 2 turns and dealing out damage  after being charged in the rear), my right hand cavalry and infantry would have been routed and the redoubt taken  at almost no cost to Jeff.

I think I've played Black Powder often enough now to rate it a solid 3 out of 5 stars. A set that I will willingly play, but not my 1st choice.

An enjoyable afternoon of gaming when all is said and done.

Friday, May 6, 2011

Suddenly, out of nowhere, a Tachanka appeared

Tachanka's are iconic Russian Civil War stuff, no self respecting RCW wargame army should be without one of these horse drawn MG carts.  BUT, they weren't  exactly top of my ToDo list. There are some more pioneers, artillery crews and Grenadiers for the NQSYW siege in July, the other 1/2 of my Rose Ethiopian archers, a few extra Royal Marines to flush out a unit and some Mexican Dragoons, or maybe the King's Dragoon Guards, I haven't decided yet.  

40mm Zinnbrigade Napoleonic British Dragoons, cast up and waiting patiently to find out who they will be when they grow up.

So, it was no real surprise yesterday to find out that suddenly, having a 1/72 Tchanka was the most important thing in my life (hobby wise).  Now I'm sure there are some marvelous 1/72nd models of these out there but that would require mail order, waiting 4-6 weeks for delivery and money. This is a tertiary, sideshow of a collection  and an immediate itch. I'm sure a talented modeller could research the subject carefully and scratch build one  but I'm not a modeller by any stretch of the imagination.  Luckily for me, as a "toy soldier guy" , I don't need an accurate model, just something that looks like its grandmother once met a Tchanka on a warm summer's evening, which is to say, something that reminds people of a Tchanka and looks like it could serve the purpose on a wargames table.  

The sort of Tchank I am most familiar with is the type that looks like a Russian sled but with wheels and an MG. I pondered cutting the fenders off a $ store armoured car but it all seemed a bit much. Luckily I found this picture on wikipedia:

Looks more like an old 2 wheeled MG carriage hooked up to a limber than what I think of as a Tchanka but I just happened to have a couple of limbers in the spares box (The Italeri ACW limber looked too fiddly for my modelling ambitions). So in a matter of minutes I had cut a piece of cardboard and connected a WW! RHA limber to an ACW one, added a deck and remounted an mg, primed it and this morning slapped some paint on between chores and voila!

Rough and ready but serviceable, cheap and quick. 

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Cheap & easy me, painting plastics and basing

The Ferryman asked a couple of questions about what I do for undercoating plastic figures and about the mix I use on my bases. Since I had nothing else to say and someone else might be curious, I decided to put it in a post.

As widely recommended, I scrub plastics with hot water and dish soap then I undercoat in white gesso, mixed with a bit of paint to avoid any glaring white spots. The colour depends on what I'm painting but usually some shade of brown, often burnt umber, or blue. I used to undercoat my 54mm plastics with acrylic matte medium but this is cheaper and seems to work well as long as I have the patience to let it dry over night. I know some guys swear by Krylon primer for plastics and even more by some product they don't seem to sell up here that is used for rubberizng tool handles. I don't have anywhere I can use sprays inside and its usually too cold, too damp or too windy outside so have gotten away from them.

In case I haven't mentioned it, for the last 30 odd years, I use craft acrylics pretty much exclusively, mostly Ceramcoat but some of the others as well.  Probably explains some of my variable results but the price is right and I'm usually happy with the result. Since they don't have specialized military colours, I choose something close or mix. The khaki Russian uniforms were made from Burnt Sienna and Avocado Green. Drybrushed highlights had a bit of yellowy tan mixed in, shadows were done with thinned burnt umber. No idea which tan I nabbed this time but then, I like a little variation on my figures, looks more natural to my eye.
(Some of you are probably thinking, "what highlights and shadows?", well I prefer subtle over drastic so they aren't terribly noticable, but they do affect the final look (but if I miss a spot, that doesn't show too easily .)












Normally I overcoat in acrylic varnish to protect the figures but all I have at the moment is Gloss and these call out for Matte so I've asked them to please be careful until I restock. Actually, as long as the paint hardens well before being handled (say 24 hours even though the paint is dry to the touch in minutes), I find it pretty tough even without varnish.I wish I could remember how I treated the Airfux ACW guys   back in '83. They spent 20 years or more tossed into my spare bits and pieces bin and re-emerged to answer the call with hardly a scrape, even on the musket barrels. The ACW figures were the short lived MPC  releases and were in a fairly hard plastic, not that different from the Zvezda WWI Russians and not like many other plastic figures.

My flocked bases have two main components (I undercoat the wooden bases with a coat of brown paint just in case I miss a spot but I'm not counting that). First I coat with white glue and dip into a bin of traction sand. This is pretty must dirt coloured with a variety of textures so I don't do anything to it afterwards. If I run out during the off season, some bags pf play sand will work but in either case, check the colour in your area. I have seen some atrocious yellow sand which would have to painted.I was also horrified one winter to find that the new rage was for coarse sand which was like boulders for 20mm guys.

Sand and debris. This is the same stuff I scatter on the table for dirt roads and sweep up afterwards and return to the can. It gains character as time goes by.

Once that is dry (ish), I dab bits of glue on, trying to leave some bare spots for contrast. The drier the locale, the more bare spots, then I dip the bases into my 'special mix' and gently blow the excess off, back into the can. This also helps the grass bits stand up a little. The "Special mix" varies from month to month but is basically a blend of woodland scenics grass, medium flock in at least 2 shades and course flock. I dump some of each into an old candy tin and shake it up. As it gets low I top it up from one or other of the containers and it picks up some sand and grit from the bases as well, so its never quite the same and never completely different. Looks better on the 20's than the 40's where the grass is too short. The important things are, its easy and its not uniform so it looks more natural.



Another endorsement, bottles of Woodland scenics. These are a bit pricey for me so I'm not sure they'll be replaced but then, these were bought in 2006 in memory serves and I am painting my toy soldier bases instead of flocking so I probably have 5 years or more before I have to worry about it.


The real key in all cases is that the method's are fast and easy. If it weren't for procrastination, I'd call laziness my prime attribute.