Pegasus Russian Log Cabins each occupying a 3" square. or else a 6" square village.
The tank is a Hat FT-17 with a basic coar of paint. A bit of weathering etc to follow. Infantry by Strelitz.
An old 15mm cardboard farm I made about 25 years ago. It fills 1 3" square but doesn't quite have room for a stand of troops.
An even older carboard town block made by friend Dave Wilson. It makes 2 adjacent 3" blocks with no room for troops or 1 6" town with room for troops
Then I played a 2 game RCW mini-campaign. Each game took about 45 minutes. I'll write up a proper report tomorrow but both games were fun and the rules worked well..
Whites on the right, Reds on the left. Naturally.
I finished up with a run through a 1 hit per unit mini-Crysler's Farm. Again, a full report to follow but it needs some work and thought. One of the issues I need to sort out is what to do if I go permanent with a grid, do I use many 3" squares with 1 stand units or fewer 6" ones with multi stand units. Then I need to look at the impact on a portable game.
Ross Mac,
ReplyDeleteWOW!!
Your games look far more polished/professional than my meagre play-tests on chessboards ... and look like the sort of set up I will want to pursue at some time in the future.
I look forward to reading your battle reports, especially the RCW mini-campaign. I envisaged the portable wargame as being used for small 'one off' battles or for a series of inter-connected battles (in other words, a mini-campaign) and I would like to know more about how it worked out.
The mini-Chrysler's Farm battle looks very impressive, and it has made me think about actually wargaming with my pre-painted Del Prado 25/28mm Waterloo figures using the portable wargame's rules.
All the best,
Bob
Thanks Bob but I'm afarid the camera flatters if not down right lies. That said, this is all my usual wargaming stuff with a sloppy grid superimposed and I have found that as long as things are of similar colour tones and atmosphere, they will hang together.
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